What should be paid attention to when setting the main parameters of the 3d printer?

When it comes to slicing software, everyone who has a 3D printer knows that when using a machine to print objects, the parameter settings in the slicing software are very important. After all, every 3D printer is different, and the materials and models will also be different. Therefore, machines and materials require different settings for good print quality.

Temperature

The temperature of the nozzle is the most important setting in your slicing software, because without Goldilocks-level heat (not too cold and not too hot), the print won’t work. Nozzle temperature should be the first thing you adjust on your slicer whenever you start printing with a new filament.

Too hot a nozzle can cause over-extrusion, spots and pimples all over the print. On the other hand, too low a temperature can lead to underextrusion, i.e. not all layers are printed completely.

Layer Height

Layer height is another very influential factor in slicing software, which refers to the height of each layer of the print. The smaller the layer height, the more layers are required for the entire print. This means your printer will have more room to produce limited details on parts such as miniatures. On the other hand, more layers also mean longer printing times.

Speed

Speed is our third powerful 3D Printing Slicer software setting. As the name suggests, it is the speed at which the print head moves. In general, “Speed” includes many different settings, not just the default movement speed. For example, it may be useful to adjust specific speeds (such as fill speed, wall speed, etc.) from the old defaults.

In general, it’s best to keep specific speed settings and only adjust the default speed. In most slicing software, a specific speed will be selected based on the layer height and material you choose, but if you think your printer can handle it, you can try increasing the print speed to reduce the print time.

Adhesion Helper

is a physical feature added to the print – automatically generated by the slice when instructed to do so – designed to enhance bed adhesion. Bed adhesion is the degree to which the part adheres to the build surface and is usually most important for the first layer.

There are three main forms:

Skirt

The skirt won’t really help with adhesion to the model, but will help keep the material flowing through the nozzle in time for the first layer to start. They can also be used to manually adjust the level of the bed at the last minute. Many slices automatically generate a skirt for each print unless otherwise set.

Hat Brim

A fringe is a set of lines connected to the outside of the first layer of the print, spreading from its base. If your print is a cylinder, the brim will actually look like the brim of a top hat. As far as the adhesion helper is concerned, this is the first step if the model has problems with bed adhesion (for example, because it has small “feet”).

Raft

A raft is a complete base for its model growth. When printing rafts, the slicer will usually try to save material by putting space between adjacent rows. It’s a hassle-free method for bed adhesion because your prints never have to touch the surface. (This is often useful when warping is an issue.) The skirt takes up the least amount of material and printing time, followed by the brim, then the raft.

Support

Supports are another important slicing setup, and like the sticky helpers, are slicer-generated. Supports are structures that support overhanging features on the model and can be set in the slicer if they meet certain requirements.

These requirements include overhang angles and minimum support areas. The former determines the minimum angle the overhang must reach before the slice creates supports to support it. The latter determines the minimum area (in mm2) of the support structure that must be included in the print.

Withdraw

Retraction is usually the first setting that comes to mind when seeing pull lines on a print. Withdrawal determines how much and how quickly the filament is sucked back into the nozzle to prevent 3D Printing Filament from seeping out when it is not being extruded. Retraction is controlled by a few specific settings, chief among which are Retraction Distance and Retraction Speed.